Experiencing authentic Crete: Leonidas’ Rakokazano in Alagni

Where every drop tells a story

Just a few steps from Tonia’s Cottage, in the heart of Alagni, there’s a place where time, tradition, and community meet. It’s not just a distillery—it’s Leonidas’ rakokazano, a space filled with laughter, stories, and the smell of tsikoudia rising into the autumn air. The room itself feels alive—its walls covered with old photographs, tools, and everyday artifacts, each one telling a story. Everywhere you look, there’s something interesting to discover—a glimpse of how life once was in Crete. Alagni sits about 470 meters above sea level, surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, only 25 kilometers from Heraklion.

If you want to feel the real Crete, this is the place. It’s like stepping into a living museum, where every glass raised carries a bit of local warmth and connection.

The Tsikoudia ritual: more than a drink

When the grape harvest ends and cooler winds arrive, Alagni’s rakokazano comes alive. Making tsikoudia (also known as raki) is not just work—it’s a celebration.
Fires burn day and night, music fills the air, and tables overflow with simple, delicious food—grilled meat, potatoes, and maybe the sound of a Cretan lyra playing nearby.

Leonidas often says that running a rakokazano takes hard work and heart. The fire never sleeps, and every batch matters. But the joy of seeing people come together makes it all worth it.

A Rakokazano: raki distillation with a soul

Forget the idea of a big industrial hall. In Alagni, Leonidas Karapidakis’ rakokazano began as a simple stone stable from the 1970s. He built it himself in 1971, dreaming of starting a cattle farm, but when that plan didn’t succeed, he transformed the space ten years later into the first rakokazano in the area. Inside, the walls are lined with old tools, kitchen items, and family treasures—a beautiful mix of history and heart.

Each autumn, locals and visitors come together here to distill raki (tsikoudia)—but the true magic lies in the sense of togetherness. Laughter fills the air, conversations flow easily, and tables overflow with shared food and stories. Glasses are raised late into the night to the sound of live Cretan music, while Leonidas’ wife, Maria, and their children keep the fire glowing, the tsikoudia pouring, and every guest feeling like part of the family.

Cretan distillation: a living tradition

For Cretans, distilling tsikoudia is more than making a drink—it’s a shared ritual passed from one generation to the next. The rakokazano is proof that community and tradition can still thrive in our fast-changing world.

So, when you wander through Alagni’s quiet lanes in autumn and hear laughter drifting through the air, follow it. Step inside Leonidas’ rakokazano, raise a glass, and feel part of something timeless.

You’ll leave not just with a taste of tsikoudia—but with a warm piece of Crete’s heart.

Tonia ❤️

* References:
​https://www.e-storieskritis.gr/2015/10/blog-post_18.html
https://www.kritipoliskaixoria.gr/2023/09/blog-post_433.html

A Journey back home

Before creating his rakokazano, Leonidas had lived abroad. As a young man, he left Crete for Canada, where he spent a few years working and learning about the world. But his heart never left the island. When he finally returned, even though he found work in the city of Heraklion, he chose to build his life and raise his family in his village, Alagni. His story carries the same spirit as his tsikoudia—rooted, strong, and full of love for home.

Everyday treasures: the folk museum within

Inside the rakokazano, every corner tells a story. Old jugs, tools, and faded photographs remind visitors of how life once was in Crete. Many of these pieces were collected by Leonidas himself—from his own relatives, from Maria’s family, and even from old village dumps that existed before the area had regular garbage collection. He rescued and restored each item with love, so the memories of everyday life wouldn’t be lost.

Even if you come just to see how tsikoudia is made, you’ll likely stay to wander around and listen to the stories behind these objects. It’s a small folk museum where every detail whispers something about Cretan life and resilience.

Hospitality that crosses borders

The warmth of Leonidas’ rakokazano has reached far beyond Alagni. Even journalists from Iceland once visited and wrote about the experience with great affection. For everyone who comes, it’s not just about the drink—it’s about friendship, laughter, and genuine hospitality.

What makes Leonidas’ rakokazano special is that it was the first in the wider area to combine distillation with a warm, welcoming space where people could sit, watch, and enjoy the whole process. In earlier days, rakokazana were just working sheds—dark, smoky, and messy. Leonidas changed that completely, turning his into a place of joy and gathering.

Still, like many local traditions, these small distilleries face challenges. New regulations sometimes threaten their future, but Leonidas and the locals keep the spirit alive, hoping this way of life continues for generations to come.

Visiting Alagni and Leonidas’ Rakokazano: practical tips

The rakokazano comes alive in autumn, usually from October to November, when the tsikoudia distillation season begins. Visitors are always welcome—just bring curiosity, kindness, and an appetite for local life.

Getting there: Alagni is only about a 25-minute drive from Heraklion, making Tonia’s Cottage an ideal base for exploring the area.

What to do nearby:

• Wander through the nearby town of Arkalochori — full of shops, cafés, and local charm.
  (See also: Eat, shop, and connect: a local’s guide to Arkalochori)

• Join one of the local festivals or community events to experience authentic Cretan spirit.
  (Read: Live like a local: Alagni’s annual village celebration)

Discover more hidden gems across Crete with this local guide: geotour.gr/listing